Ingredient Glossary

Acai is a small berry with a high antioxidant content (including vitamins A, C and E) that protects the skin from free radical damage and inflammation. Acai is rich in fatty acids (namely omega 3, 6 and 9) which help improve the skin's texture. Acai's high concentration of vitamin C also means it is adept at brightening the skin.

Naturally derived from the comfrey flower (Symphytum officinale), allantoin is a potent multi-tasker, facilitating skin cell renewal, accelerating skin repair, reducing transepidermal water loss and soothing and restoring the delicate skin barrier.

Aloe vera is a spiky succulent native to dry, tropical climates worldwide. Its dense leaves hold a high water content as well a high amount of fatty acids, amino acids and vitamins A, B12, C and E, making it adept at fighting inflammation, soothing and hydrating the skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble chemical exfoliants that work by removing dead skin cells from the upper surface of the skin, allowing new skin cells to generate and resulting in more radiant skin. AHAs are generally used to reduce signs of aging, often targeting fine lines and pigmentation. Whilst AHAs are naturally occuring (for instance in sugarcane), the versions used in skincare are generally produced in a lab. The most commonly used AHAs are lactic acid and glycolic acid.

Amino acids serve as the building blocks of proteins and peptides and are one of the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) - a group of substances that ensure moisture balance within the skin. Amino acids are an essential element of healthy skin and work to optimize skin homeostasis, which maintains skin barrier function. Each amino acid will perform a different function for skin (e.g. hydrating, maintaining the microbiome or neutralizing skin damaging free radicals). Common amino acids seen in skincare include arginine, histidine, methionine, lysine, proline, leucine, glycine and glutamine.

Alpha-arbutin is a skincare ingredient derived from hydroquinone (an agent which limits the production of melanin, effectively lightening dark spots). Arbutin can be derived from plants or created in a lab and is a potent skin brightener and pigment fader.

Derived from a plant in the sunflower family, Arnica montana, arnica has been used for centuries to provide anti-inflammatory benefits. Though scientific studies are inconclusive, anecdotal research suggests it helps with wound healing, reduction in bruising and limits swelling, and is used in skincare to to calm and soothe.

Ascorbic acid (or L-ascorbic acid) is the most potent form of vitamin C used in skincare. Vitamin C is the most abundant antioxidant within our skin, and has many benefits when applied topically in skincare: brightening, evening tone, reducing fine lines and wrinkles and protecting against environmental aggressors.

Astaxanthin is a potent antioxidant from the carotenoid family, and has been proven to reduce the signs of aging, improving skin texture and reducing pigmentation, as well as delivering photoprotective, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

Avocado oil is a potent antioxidant, emollient, and anti-inflammatory. It contains a number of fatty acids and minerals, as well as vitamins A, C, D and E to aid the skin in maintaining hydration, minimize the damage from free radicals and boost collagen production.

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that has profound skin-soothing and brightening effects, helping to unclog the pores and revitalize the surface of the skin - evening skin tone, fading discoloration and smoothing the skin. It is naturally occurring (and can be obtained from grains such as barley, wheat and rye) but is often lab-produced for skincare.

Bakuchiol is an antioxidant-rich, plant-based alternative to retinol (derived from Psoralea corylifolia, with an ability to combat wrinkles, alleviate acne and even skin tone. Bakuchiol works to increase the volume of collagen in our skin and limits the impact of skin damaging free radicals, therefore reducing signs of aging and the damaging effects of UV rays.

Barley (or Hordeum vulgare) extract is high in antioxidant-rich phenols (chemical compounds found in plant tissue). Barley extract has a soothing effect on the skin and helps to support the skin barrier.

Benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient used for the management of acne, working to reduce acne-producing bacteria whilst encouraging the turnover of skin cells to reduce clogged pores. Benzoyl peroxide may be found in cleansers, lotions and spot treatments.

Beta-carotene is a carotenoid with potent antioxidant properties, helping protect against the damaging effects of free radicals, particularly from UV and visible light sources. Beta-carotene has been shown to reduce levels of oxidative stress and deliver supple, rejuvenated skin. 

Biotin (or vitamin B7) helps process glucose, proteins and fats within our bodies and changes them into energy. It also supports the formation of fatty acids which are essential to skin health.  Biotin is commonly found in skin and hair supplements and within skin, nail and hair care. More research needs to be done to support the use of biotin in skin, nail and hair formulations.

Centella asiatica is an antioxidant and amino acid-rich adaptogenic herb that effectively soothes and hydrates the skin, whilst helping to maintain the skin barrier. It also offers restorative effects from the signs of aging, thanks to its high content of phenolics and flavonoids, which help protect against environmental aggressors such as UV rays and pollution.

Chlorella vulgaris is an algae-derived, antioxidant-rich ingredient that soothes, hydrates and protects the skin from environmental damage, effectively supporting the skin barrier. It has also been credited with preserving collagen, therefore reducing the effects of aging on the skin.

Fatty acid-rich cholesterol is a natural part of the skin barrier, responsible for maintaining skin's moisture levels. Within skincare, cholesterol can help restore moisture and smoothness whilst protecting against environmental aggressors. A common example of cholesterol used within skincare  is lanolin.

Citric acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) extracted from citrus fruits. It is an effective chemical exfoliator that dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together to reveal more radiant skin. Citric acid is also a potent source of antioxidants and can help maintain the skin's pH levels - both of which make it ideal for maintaining healthy skin barrier function.

Collagen is the most abundant protein found in the body (making up 80% of our skin), and plays a vital role in providing strength and structure to our cells and tissues. Collagen helps keep our skin supple and full, whilst aiding in the regeneration of skin cells. As we mature, collagen production slows. Skincare including ingredients such as peptides, vitamin C, retinol and niacinamide can help stimulate collagen production. Hydrolyzed collagen (collagen broken into smaller peptides) may be applied topically to the skin and acts as a humectant. Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin when applied topically to impact skin structure and density.

Also known as Avena sativa, colloidal oatmeal is produced by finely grinding oats. It is a potent yet gentle humectant (that attracts and retains water in the skin) thanks to its high concentration of beta-glucan and starches, whilst also being rich in the antioxidants, amino acids and fatty acids. Colloidal oatmeal is known for its softening, soothing and nourishing abilities. 

Copper peptides in skincare are an antioxidant that mimic a naturally occurring peptide in the skin (GHK-Cu) that promotes the production of collagen and elastin to help soften signs of aging such as fine lines and uneven skin tone. It can also help balance the skin's microbiome.

Sugar-derived dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a color agent that is most commonly present in self-tanners. It reacts with the amino acids found within the upper layers of skin to create a darker color on the surface of the skin over a number of hours. DHA affects only the top layer of skin (and lasts only a few days due to the high turnover of skin cells), and therefore does not trigger the production of melanin and does not offer effective protection against UV radiation.

Ectoin is an amino acid derivative and is known as an extremolyte, one of a group of compounds derived that protects plants and microorganisms from extreme conditions (such as deserts and the deep ocean). Ectoin can help to form a seal over the skin, protecting it against transepidermal water loss and reducing cellular damage from environmental aggressors such as UV exposure and pollution. Ectoin may also help improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

Extracted from the flower of the same name, evening primrose oil is rich in fatty acids, flavonoids and other antioxidants, offering extremely effective hydration and smoothness, protection against aging elements (such as pollution and UV) and improving skin tone. It has been proven to be particularly effective for atopic dermatitis, and its high content of linoleic acid effectively supports the skin barrier function and skin structure.

Fatty acids are a major component of lipids (the link between cells that ensures water retention in the skin) and they are an intrinsic part of skin barrier function, in particular locking in moisture. In skincare, they are often used as an adept yet gentle emollient, helping smooth and protect the skin, and are found within many moisturizers and cleansers.

Ferulic acid is a naturally-occuring, potent antioxidant - particularly effective at providing protection from UV and enhancing stability of other antioxidants, namely vitamins C and E. When used topically, ferulic acid can also help prevent skin discoloration.

Flavonoids are naturally occurring compounds found in plants that help protect against environmental aggressors. In skincare, flavonoids' high concentration of antioxidants help to neutralize damage from stressors such as UV and pollution, supporting healthy skin barrier function and overall appearance.

Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a humectant (that attracts and retains water) present in natural lipids (the link between cells that ensures water retention in the skin barrier). In skincare, it helps provide balance and hydration, contributing to healthy function and appearance of the skin. It works best when combined with other emollient ingredients that can soften dry, flaky skin. Glycerin within skincare can be naturally derived or synthetic.

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), a type of chemical exfoliant that dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. There are a number of studies supporting glycolic acid’s capabilities in exfoliating and improving signs of aging such as uneven skin tone, sun damage, rough skin and fine lines, as well as effectively increasing the skin's hydration and texture. Recent studies have shown glycolic acid also has the potential to protect from UV damage, but more evidence is needed. Glycolic acid is naturally occurring but is most effective in skincare when lab-produced.

Goji (or Lycium barbarum) extract is an antioxidant-rich berry that has high concentrations of phenolic acids and flavonoids to help defend against environmental aggressors and repair the skin damage. Goji has also been proven to be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation as well as aiding collagen and elastin production by promoting the longevity of fibroblast skin cells.

Gotu kola, also known as Centella asiatica, asiatic acid or hydrocotyl, is a herb native to Asia. It offers a variety of skin benefits thanks to its antioxidant and active compounds, and is adept at soothing, hydrating and calming inflammation. Gotu kola first became popular in South Korea as the active ingredient in Cica creams.

Rich in extremely powerful antioxidants (including polyphenols, flavonoids, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins), grape seed reduces the effects of environmental stressors on the skin, whilst providing anti-inflammatory benefits.

Hydroquinone works by limiting the skin's production of melanin (the pigment within skin) and is used to lighten hyperpigmentation. When used as directed, hydroquinone is effective and safe. Overuse especially of high concentrations of hydroquinone can very rarely result in skin damage. As such, it can only be used under direction from a healthcare professional and is not available over the counter.

Indian gooseberry seed (Phyllanthus emblica) is an antioxidant-rich extract found in skincare. Its high content of vitamin C means it is effective at protecting the skin from environmental damage and preventing the signs of aging. It is also anti-inflammatory and believed to promote collagen production, resulting in rejuvenated skin.

Inositol is a naturally occurring molecule within the body that assists with the formation of skin cells, as well as balancing water in the skin and supporting the function of fatty acids. In skincare, inositol helps maintain the skin's firmness and hydration. It is typically derived from plants, but can be lab-produced.

Extracted from the seeds of the shrub of the same name, jojoba oil has a relatively lightweight oil texture (though it is technically a wax) and is rich in a number of antioxidants, fatty acids and vitamin E. Acting as both a humectant (that attracts and retains water in the skin) and an emollient (that softens dry, flaky skin), jojoba oil is effective at maintaining the skin's moisture-levels whilst offering soothing and restorative benefits. Due to its similarity in texture to sebum, it is effective at hydrating dry skin whilst being well tolerated by people with oily and breakout-prone skin.

Kaolin is a naturally-occurring clay, used within skincare for its oil absorbing properties. Due to its high absorbency, kaolin can be drying on the skin and is often used in formulations alongside hydrating ingredients. Kaolin can also be used as an abrasive element in physical exfoliators.

Kojic acid is a naturally-occuring substance derived from fungi. In skincare, it is used for addressing uneven skin tone, specifically hyperpigmentation, effectively brightening the skin by blocking the production of tyrosinase within the skin, and therefore inhibiting the production of melanin.

Lactic acid is an effective AHA (a chemical exfoliant that works by breaking the bonds of dead skin cells) with antioxidant properties. Lactic acid is the most researched AHA after glycolic acid, and has been shown to even skin tone, hydrate the skin, fade signs of aging such as fine lines and sun damage, strengthen and protect the skin barrier and balance the skin's microbiome. Lactic acid is also a component of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF), a blend of compounds naturally found in the skin that help maintain moisture.

Lactobacillus is a probiotic (a "good bacteria") that is beneficial for your body. It is particularly effective for the skin, and has hydrating, soothing and balancing effects when its non-live form is used in skincare. Lactobacillus breaks down to lactic acid, a component of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) - a group of substances that ensure moisture balance within skin.

Lycopene is a naturally occurring antioxidant, derived from red fruits and vegetables such as tomatoes and watermelons. Within skincare, it helps protect against oxidative skin stress. 

Madecassoside is a major component of Centella asiatica (gotu kola) with skin-protecting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Rich in fatty and amino acids and phytochemicals, madecassoside is used in skincare for its hydrating and revitalizing effect on the skin.

Mandelic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), a chemical exfoliant that breaks the bonds between dead skin cells. Due to its large molecular size, it is slower to penetrate the skin, and is therefore generally better tolerated by sensitive skin as compared to other AHAs such as glycolic acid. Mandelic acid is often used to help treat hyperpigmentation. It may be derived from almonds or lab-produced.

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide (or NAD+) is a coenzyme naturally occurring within our bodies, which is critical for cell function and human health. As we age, NAD+ levels decrease, resulting in an increased vulnerability to environmental aggressors and a decrease in collagen and elastin. There are currently a number of studies into the impact of oral supplements shown to stimulate NAD+ levels, but as of now NAD+ cannot penetrate the skin barrier when applied topically, and therefore is unlikely to have an impact on skin health.

Omega fatty acids are a type of essential fatty acid that our body does not produce naturally, but which are required for healthy function of cells, including skin cells. When used in skincare, omega fatty acids strengthen the structure of the skin, smoothing, repairing, hydrating and soothing whilst offering anti-aging benefits such as reduction of UV damage, fine lines and elastin degradation. The most beneficial omega fatty acids in skincare are linoleic acid (omega-6), alpha-linoleic acid (omega-3) and oleic acid (omega-9).

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (or PCA) is a humectant (attracting and retaining moisture in the skin) derived from amino acids. PCA is naturally occurring within the skin and plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), a group of substances that ensure moisture balance within skin. The most commonly used PCAs in skincare are sodium PCA, calcium PCA, magnesium PCA and potassium PCA, all which are used to boost and maintain hydration and strengthen the skin barrier.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that occur naturally within the skin, forming the building blocks of proteins, and acting as signal molecules, triggering the production of skin-supporting proteins. Peptides are the basis of numerous studies, and have proven firming, soothing and hydrating abilities, leading to a stronger skin barrier, fewer fine lines and wrinkles, reduced inflammation and more elastic skin. Peptides to look out for include copper peptide, carnosine, n-acetylcarnosine, palmitoyl tripeptides, tetrapeptides and hexapeptides.

Phloretin is a flavonoid (a naturally occurring compound found in plants that helps protect from environmental aggressors) found in apples and apple trees. Within skincare, phloretin’s antioxidant effects help support the skin barrier and improve skin tone. Phloretin can act as a penetration enhancer within a skincare formula, allowing  active ingredients to penetrate the skin more effectively.